Sukoon Houseboat, Srinagar

The British wanted to live in Kashmir, but 19th-century Dogra law strictly forbade foreigners from owning land. Their workaround was clever: they built on water. Taking inspiration from traditional Kashmiri behaz and dongas—wooden boats that had navigated the valley for centuries—they created the residential houseboat. It was a loophole that allowed them to settle without owning ground.

Today, that same rhythm dictates daily life on Dal Lake. It functions like a floating neighborhood. In the inner channels, city traffic disappears. Instead, you see the ordinary routines of the lake: children paddling to school, people commuting to work, and vendors selling fresh flowers, crafts, and hot cups of saffron Kahwa from narrow boats.

Sukoon is docked in a quiet corner of this network, right beside the Rad—the famous floating gardens that fill with lotus blooms every July and August. Inside, the boat avoids the heavy, dark clutter typical of older houseboats. It is bright, simple, and clean, letting the natural cedarwood craftsmanship stand out.

The best time to be here is sunset. As the sun drops behind the Pir Panjal mountains, the water turns completely still, reflecting the silhouettes of hilltop forts and distant temples. Sitting on the deck as the lake winds down, you get to experience Kashmir’s history in its quietest, most authentic form.

Sukoon is the passion project of Altaf Chapri, co-founder of ABChapri Retreats, whose idea of hospitality is rooted in care - for the place, its people, and the traveler. A believer in slow, thoughtful travel, Altaf sees Sukoon as a way to share Kashmir’s culture and beauty while encouraging a more mindful way of experiencing Dal Lake.

To get the most out of your time here, you have to experience the lake like a local. So skip the standard boat tours and take a colorful shikara ride past waterside shops, houses and children waving from narrow boats. The quiet canals and hidden byways of Dal Lake are a haven for birdwatchers to spot the greylag geese, mallards, northern pintails, brahminy ducks and many others.

For the best insider moments, wake up early to join the chef for a stroll through the vibrant floating market to watch fresh produce change hands in an age-old barter fashion or wander through the old town's hidden alleys, historic wooden mosques and terraced Mughal gardens. Visit a nearby welcoming home to learn generational family recipes. Sukoon’s chefs offer an intimate cooking session too. If you're feeling active, you can head out for a trek in the nearby hills, but make sure to leave time for afternoons on the houseboat doing nothing at all.